DaveB applies for The Best Job in the World
Posted by daveb on February 20th, 2009
The folks at Queensland Tourism have now processed my application for The Best Job in the World — to be the caretaker of the Islands of the Great Barrier Reef. Watch my application video on their Website and don’t forget to vote for me if you think I’m up to it!
(Mum: Please don’t vote only one star, so that I have to come home!)
Click here to see DaveB’s video application for The Best Job in the World.
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Akaroa: Swimming with Dolphins
Posted by Squiffy on February 19th, 2009
It’s rare that you get the opportunity to swim with dolphins in the wild. Many places around the world offer swimming with dolphins experiences, but these are usually with dolphins in captivity. Whilst we did get to see the creatures very close-up in the wild at Monkey Mia, we weren’t allowed to go in the water with them. So we jumped at the chance to swim with wild Hector dolphins in Akaroa, despite the chilly water.
A small boat transported 10 of us out into the harbour and we waited patiently for the dolphins to come and visit us. When a pod showed an interest, we jumped somewhat reluctantly into the cold and slightly choppy water. But as you’d imagine, it was an amazing experience, better than I’d expected, because we had a number of dolphins splashing around us and swimming past within touching distance. They seemed to enjoy playing with us as much as we did with them, and they responded well to our underwater (via snorkel) calls and singing. Being so fast, they were difficult to photograph but we got a couple of snaps of (parts of) them underwater, just to show you how close they came – no competition winners I’m afraid.
Back on board we were treated to a hot chocolate to warm up and looked over the official photographer’s snaps. Of course we succumbed and bought one; we need some evidence to ‘show the future grandkids’.
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Christchurch: Gondola up, bike down
Posted by daveb on February 18th, 2009
The Christchurch Gondola provided me with a bargaining chip to get Squiffy up a mountain. There’s no way Miss Lazylegs would walk up after what the High Atlas range in Morocco did to her. Knowing my new found romance with bikes, she agreed that we would hire mountain bikes at the top and ride them down to the base station. We shunned the rugged mountain terrain for the more scenic road route. After all it’d be all downhill, wouldn’t it?
No. Unbeknown to both of us, the first 150 metres of the route was in fact uphill. Hardly Tour Down Under steep, but steep enough for us to feel like somebody had set fire to our lungs. Claire lasted all of about twenty metres. I lasted rather longer, only disembarking the vessel in a Bridget-Jones-falls-off-exercise-bike style some twenty metres from the summit. After exchanging our various “I think I’m going to die” sensations with each other and sucking in the views (read: waiting for our breath to return), we began our descent.
The scenery here is magnificent and we took our time sweeping our way down the mountain and along the beach roads back towards the base. I thought the bikes were brilliant, really great quality. Just don’t ask Squiffy: her botty was saw for days,
If you’re riding the Gondola, I heartily recommend biking down the road and making an afternoon of it — even if you have to push the bikes for the first and last uphill bits (like we did). Just don’t make the mistake of turning off to return to the Gondola base too soon, only realising the mistake after pushing the bikes up a very steep road (also, like we did).
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Possum Socks: Animal activists need not apply
Posted by daveb on February 17th, 2009
Possums were introduced into New Zealand years ago and now the people here want rid of them because the Possum’s growing population is leading to the demise of the much-loved country’s icon, the Kiwi. So the businessmen here do what any self-respecting conservationalist would: they make ’em into socks to flog to the tourists (and have the gall to put the word “eco” on the product, too).
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Christchurch: Jailhouse winner best hostel award
Posted by daveb on February 16th, 2009
The Torquay Foreshore Caravan Park recently claimed the dubious honours to Escape the City’s “Worst Caravan/Campsite Award“. As Ying is to Yang, it gives me great pleasure to award The Jailhouse hostel in Christchurch, New Zealand, winner of Escape the City’s “Best Hostel Award”. (Yes, I just created this award too.) In the budget price range it whips the competition, and badly — it’s the best hostel in which we’ve stayed. Globally.
Converted a couple of years ago from a disused jail, the owners have clearly stayed in hostels themselves and have thought through just about everything. It’s cleaner than everywhere we’ve stayed, it’s brighter, it’s interesting, it’s sociable (but not too sociable!). There’s a cinema, a gym, a free pool table — not that we’ve used any of them. More importantly, the kitchen and bathrooms are spotless and better equipped than everywhere else. The staff are first class. The bedroom size is adequate (in fairness, it was a prison cell), the beds are better than most hotels, and we’ve even got a TV and DVD player (with free DVD rentals) in the room. There were two rolled, fluffy white towels on the bed awaiting our arrival. If it weren’t for the beautiful countryside that demands exploration, I’d vote to stay here until our visa expires.
Squiffy and I are seriosuly considering getting the staff here a box of choccies to say thanks. Every time I look, they’re cleaning or helping others. On my return, one of my business vague ideas is to run a hostel. If I do so, this place will be my benchmark. And I’d hire any of the staff in a nano-heartbeat. Well done guys: The Jailhouse… Rocks!
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Victoria to New Zealand: Lucky Escape?
Posted by Squiffy on February 14th, 2009
We would like to offer our sympathies to the people of Victoria, who have lost their homes and families in the horrendous fires. Just watching it on the TV, it’s quite hard to believe.
As you know, it’s only 6 days ago that we left Victoria as we couldn’t cope with the temperatures there. We deliberated for a long time about whether to come to New Zealand or to ‘push on’ and had devised a route from Melbourne to Sydney which passed directly through the areas hit by the fire. I feel very grateful that we chose to leave Australia, potentially avoiding this awful situation. The people of Victoria are in our thoughts.
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Christchurch: (It’s in New Zealand)
Posted by daveb on February 13th, 2009
You read the title right, we’re in New Zealand already. How can this be, you ask, only yesterday I published an article on Ballarat in Victoria, Australia?
Firstly, you should know that this blog trails reality by a couple of weeks (or more recently only a few of days). Secondly and somewhat surprisingly, New Zealand is only a couple of hour’s flight from Melbourne. Yesterday, we dropped off our car with Julia and Dave in Ballarat and caught the train back to Melbourne. After a final night with our friend Mark, we jumped on an aeroplane headed for the land of sheep, down under.
Christchurch, or ChCh as it’s sometimes abbreviated (I’ve chosen to pronounce it “Chi-Chi”, for kicks), is reportedly the most English of all the Kiwi cities. I say city, but really it’s more like a town — the population is only 345,000. We’ve only been here a day as I type this, but I can tell you this: it’s cold.
Yayhay! Whoopee! Yabbadabbadoo! It’s cold! And we love it! It’s overcast, grey and it’s the middle of summer! It’s just like home!
(Alright, it’s still over twenty degrees, which is obviously not cold by British standards, but compared to the forty-plus nonsense of Australia, believe me — this place is cold!)
After spending the morning pleasantly punting up and down the River Avon, we spent the rest of the day delighting in the fact that we could hold hands without getting sweaty palms and bought fleecy scarves and warm jackets! I am still wearing my minimal Australia sun clothes and am loving the twenty degree downward change of temperature and Squiffy is, well… cold. Poor lass has been wandering round wearing a under layer, two fleeces and a scarf and is still complaining of the chills. Seems like she’s got a really narrow comfortable temperature band (if she has one at all) and so I’ll have to set about designing a climate-controlled Squiffy-sized hamster ball in which to put her to continue our tour!
Seriously though, we were able to spend the whole day outside and didn’t need to replace our own body weights with water.
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Ballarat: Save water, drink wine.
Posted by daveb on February 12th, 2009
At our campsite in Adelaide, we had the good fortune to make friends with two couples from the Victorian city of Ballarat, Judy and Ian, and Julia and Dave. Judy had insisted that we look them up when we got to Melbourne, so we thought “why not?”
Ballarat’s past revolved around gold and–‘scuse my pun–revolution, but nowadays earns it’s crust through tourism. Ian kindly took us for a drive around the city to show us the city’s sights and heritage. Aside from the gold-related historical sights, the city seems both proud and concerned about its lake. Lake Wendouree is six kilometres in circumference and is encircled by the most fabulous, luxury houses, restaurants, parkland and botanic gardens. Boat sheds back into the lake, which plays hosts the famous rowing races. There’s just one rather important problem. There’s no water in the lake. It’s been bone-dry for over three years and shows little sign of filling any time soon.
Talk of the town is the lack of water, which is a major cultural challenge for us Brits to understand. The locals shower with buckets beneath them to catch the excess drops. If it ever rains, they’re all out in their gardens spreading out any receptacles they have that look like they might be watertight. People with green lawns and clean cars are massively frowned upon by the community and are often compelled to erect signs to explain where they sourced their water. Water trucks enter the town to sell the wet-stuff at rates cheaper than the metered-pipe. So serious is the crisis here that Judy intercepted Claire emptying a small bottle of stale water from our car: “No! Don’t waste it! Pour it on the flowerbed!”
After a welcome spot of wine-tasting at their brother’s/sister’s (it’s complicated…) house, we settled down to an abundant barbeque at Judy and Ian’s place. We did what only seemed right, given the dire water shortage: instead of wasting precious H2O, we drank copious amounts of beer and wine. I tried to ‘wow’ Julia and Dave’s kids by firing my India-bought elastic band-powered rocket into the air, only to get it stuck on the roof on my third attempt (don’t worry Mum, I climbed a ladder and got it down). As we discussed our plans to leave the country, Julia and Dave offered to store our car for us whilst we were away — they have a spare, locked garage and paddocks all around which seemed like a great option for us. We’re constantly amazed at how much space the non-city centre dwelling folks in Australia have.
We treasure spending time with locals in their local environment. It provides a rare and useful insight into a culture’s “real life” away from the potted tourist attractions and experiences. Thanks very much to Judy and Ian for their city tour, ample food, excellent booze and shelter. Thanks very much to Julia and Dave for kindly agreeing to store our admirable car, Don, throughout our New Zealand adventure.
We’ll miss you Don. In this incredible heat, you haven’t even broken into a sweat, which is more than I can say for your two red-faced owners.
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Plan: Swapping a Kangaroo for a Kiwi
Posted by daveb on February 11th, 2009
Claire has been to Australia before, I hadn’t. It’s true to say that we were both really excited at the prospect of coming [back] here, after all it’s probably the most common backpacking destination for us Brits and probably rightly so. It’s culturally familiar and very easy to get around. I say “probably rightly so” because our efforts to discover, or rediscover, this land have been hampered by one seemingly impassable block: the sun.
Everywhere we go, we are being constantly met with “record breaking heat waves” — and remember that we’re to be found mostly outdoors or in a non air-conditioned tent. We arrived in Perth and fought our way through the forty-plus degree city heat. As we drove further up the western coast, there were reports that our location was over fifty. In the outback, we either stayed in our car (which has brilliant air-con) or sought-out anywhere with air-conditioning, sometimes just rejoicing upon finding a shady tree in an otherwise barren plain. In Adelaide, we again suffered the stifling situation in our tent and hid in a cinema in Melbourne whilst the train-tracks buckled under the heat. In this heat over here, people are dying.
I know that this is going to be hard for our majority-UK readership–who are receiving the heaviest snowfall in eighteen years–to accept as they celebrate another day off work as the snow continues to fall, but right now I’d take minus-four over this. Simplistic as it sounds, in the cold one can add another layer. In the heat, there’s only so many layers a person in public can remove before attracting the attention of the law.
The heat of the day here is much more constant here when compared with, say, the Mediterranean. By about half-past eight in the morning it’s too hot to do very much and it continues, relentlessly, until sundown at about half-past eight in the evening. Counter intuitively, the hottest temperatures are often recorded late afternoon or early evening, but to my skin they could be measured at any time. Sometimes it’s significantly cooler at night, sometimes not.
Relatively speaking, the long, air-conditioned drives are entirely bearable, enjoyable even in comparison with the alternative of being outside. A quick refuel and–phew–we climb back into our icy-cool cabin to discuss just how unbearably hot it must be for the poor blighters not sat inside with us. But on static, non-driving days, sightseeing is impossible and our day becomes solely about survival of the sun. Stoic as we mostly are, I must now admit that right here, right now, it’s proving immensely difficult to enjoy Australia in all, or any, of its glory and… stuff this, we’re off to New Zealand!
We’ll go to New Zealand for a month or two to enjoy their summer, which only approaches thirty on a good day, and come back to continue our roadtrip once Australia has cooled-off a little. Also, New Zealand will cool-off too much in a couple of month’s time. Being this far around the world, we were obviously planning to spend some time in New Zealand and it’s much better this way around, else after the heat of Australia we’d be arriving in New Zealand just as it was getting too cold to travel and you, dear reader, would have to put up with more of our whinging!
Apart from the Australian heat, how did we make up our minds to leave so quickly? The discovery that an extension to our visa would cost us AUD$240 each, whereas a flight to New Zealand with the right airline at the right time would only cost us a couple of quid more. Upon our return to Australia, our free visa would reset itself to allow us a further three months at no additional cost. Of course, we’ll have to find somewhere to store our fabulous car for a month or two, but apart from that–and the fact that we’re not mentally prepared to carry our own backpacks again–there aren’t too many other headaches with our proposed change of plans.
Fear not Australia, we’ll be back to finish you off in the near future — please support our decision: we want to write nice things about you, but for the time being you’re way too hot, mate.
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Mornington: First self-dive
Posted by daveb on February 10th, 2009
Our kind Melbourne host, Mark, had a brilliant idea for escaping the city heat: let’s spend the day underwater. What a stroke of genius!
He drove us to Mornington, a seaside town with a pier that is a well regarded starting point for shore-based dives. Unfortunately, the busy dive shop could only rent us full scuba gear for the morning and so the afternoon would have to be spent snorkelling on the surface instead. No matter, the cold Antarctic Ocean would provide us with some relief from the immensely hot air, if only for an hour or two before we all passed into the opposite extreme of hypothermia!
Our scuba dive was quite a good one. Whilst we were all hopeless at reading our underwater compasses, were improperly weighted (think: astronauts doing weightless cartwheels) and I couldn’t see a bloody thing though my misty mask which had obviously taken a cheeky health spa steam-bath treatment just prior to attaching itself my hot face, we dived without instructors for the first time and it felt rather independent and quite adventurous. The others saw a really, really big sting ray — I thought it was a big, flat rock to stand on until I “saw” the tail. Out of time, we didn’t make it as far as the pier, as planned, and so had to make a less graceful exit from the rocks. Squiffy lost a snorkel en-route and I lost a fin-clip-thingo, and later realised that my snorkel had also escaped, presumably to meet Squiffy’s for a secret underwater rendezvous. A bit embarrassing, as we had both assured Mark that we were perfectly capable sports divers!
The afternoon’s snorkelling was good, although much more like surface swimming than we desired. Due to the remarkable buoyancy of our thick wetsuits, none of us could dive more than a couple of inches underwater to see the good stuff on the seabed. Imagine the chuckles that we must have illicited from the pier-based fisherman. Luckily for us, there was a somewhat temperature-insensitive local gent diving sans-wetsuit who was able to point out the well camouflaged leafy sea-dragons for us neoprene surface-dwellers to see.
Thanks a lot to Mark and the apparently nerve-damaged local for a lovely day underwater and out of the claws of the deeply maddening sun.
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