Royal Coach to Moshi for Mt. Kilimanjaro
Posted by daveb on July 1st, 2008
A little over eight hours on a bus from Dar Es Salaam brings us to Moshi, a town near the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro. A number of people had told us that, for this leg of our journey, the Royal Coach company would be our coolest, cleanest, safest bet. As it turns out, the air-conditioning on the bus was broken, ‘cleanest’ means different things to different people, but we did arrive in one piece. The bus departed from the firm’s office in Dar Es Salaam, rather than the reportedly tout-laden Ubungo bus terminal and arrived at the company’s Moshi office, rather that the similarly tout-laden terminal. This worked out well for us as we prefer to avoid tout zones where possible — although after passing through both Ubungu and Moshi terminals, the situation didn’t look too bad, from our elavated view.
Happily the windows on the bus did open and the temperature lowered as we drove north. I spent most of the journey looking out of the window watching the palm tree-lined plains turn to deciduous mountains ranges, intermittently punctuated with mud-hut villages. Every time the bus came to a junction or a checkpoint, food-sellers would rush over to us and attempt to sell us their wares through the windows: Nuts, oranges, sodas, wood-carvings, belts, cakes, eggs(!) — you name it, they sold it!
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Water bottle gets mistaken for a bomb
Posted by daveb on June 29th, 2008
It hadn’t gone unnoticed that many of the [armed] bank guards that I walked past had taken an interest in me. I put this down to simply being a mzungo. Turns out there’s another altogether more funny and frightening reason.
According to one petrified shopkeeper, the silver water bottle that I have been swinging on my left forefinger as I waltz down the street looks like a bomb. I would usually carry it a daypack on my back, but in certain cities our guidebooks and local informers discourage bag-carrying to reduce the likelihood of mugging.
I can’t help thinking that nobody has touched me because they’re scared that I might pull the pin!
(Mum: Don’t worry, from now on it’s in a carrier bag, and I’m trying not to look suspicious when sipping.)
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Mzungu
Posted by daveb on June 28th, 2008
Mzungu is Swahilli for “white person”. As Claire and I go about our daily lives, the locals often raise their hands to us an shout “mzungu!” as we pass. Without knowing whether it’s a warm welcome or a derogatory remark, we wave back and say “jambo!” (hello) in the faint hope that our pastey faces provide a bit of a novelty to them.
Imagine what would happen in London if the white people shouted after all the different ethnicities as they walked past…?!
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Zanzibar Popular Jokes: Lost in translation?
Posted by daveb on June 27th, 2008
Squiffy and I stumbled upon a goldmine of a bookshop today. Amongst the numerous African social, political and economic publications, I happened upon the “Zanzibar Popular Jokes” book. We’ve spent most of the afternoon in stitches, for all the wrong reasons, as we read the jokes back and forth to each other. I want to share a few of them with you, but it’s first important for you to familiarise yourself with the wishes of the author:
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What makes a cheap hotel?
Posted by daveb on June 26th, 2008
It’s high time that we shared with you an insight into the accommodation of the budget travellor. Tonight, and most nights, we stay in a cheap hotel. For two people sharing, it costs about £12 ($24) including breakfast.
It’s fair to say that the hotel is in an ugly high-rise block, recessed a little way off the street in the least appealing part of town. Having said that, the owners have employed three evening security guards and have posted notices to educate naive travellors about the local environment. Like the signs say, women of immoral turpitude need not apply here.
The room is quite spacious, although furniture is sparse. Other than beds, sometimes furniture is non-existent. Oh, the beds! Tonight, ours are made of foam and have reasonably clean sheets. Even so, Squiffy chooses to sleep in her silk-liner (intended for use within a sleeping bag) for added protection from the last person who slept here. The room is almost clean, but it’s the little things that one notices. Like the filthy light switches: Just how many greasy fingers have requested illumination since the last time a damp cloth was waved over the plastic face plate?
Unfortunately, the bathrooms in cheap hotels are often the biggest let-downs. In this example, there is a permanent lake on the tiled floor to which the leaking toilet, shower and sink contribute. When showering, one must be careful not to touch the walls, nor the curtain. However, unusually for a hotel in this class, the water is both hot and free-flowing. This is highly cherished; a cold trickle is more normal. Toothpaste and toothbrushes cannot be placed on the sink (washbasin) as it is too grubby. (Squiffy winces out loud as I proof-read the last sentence to her.) Uniquely, today we have been spoiled with ‘hotel soap’ (it even says so on the packet). One of us will not sit directly on the toilet seat, instead choosing to hover. At least the WC is of a familiar western format here; hole-in-the-ground offerings require careful logistical planning and strong squat-muscles — remember, you must on no account touch the walls! Just outside the bathroom is a red rubber floor mat with ‘Welcome’ embossed into it.
This morning, breakfast included:
- Two slivers of papaya (paw-paw, to some)
- Two slices of buttered American-style bread (i.e. very sweet to the British palate)
- A cup of coffee, using milk-on-the-turn complete with floaty bits
From reading the above, you may think that I’m not a fan of budget hotels: On the contrary, even without taking into account the ‘free’ breakfast, price-wise each night works out to cost less than a quarter of what a night at home in our mortgaged London flat did. And is our London flat really four times nicer?
Well, yes actually! Oh, wait a minute… that’s not the point I was hoping to make here.
Doesn’t it make you think though, what is a night at your home costing you?
PS: Phil, feel free to tell us how this is nothing compared to six months in the back of a Land Rover, washing in rivers and using a frog as a bar of soap…
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What are YOU doing?
Posted by daveb on June 25th, 2008
Claire and I often wonder what you (yes, YOU; our friends and family) are doing right now. Why not cheer us up by leaving a quick comment below letting us know how you are and what you’re up to?
(It’ll only take a few seconds, I promise!)
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Dar Es Salaam: Man shines head-torch in ear shocker!
Posted by daveb on June 24th, 2008
It’s been three days since I became deaf in my left ear. The antibiotic ear drops that I’ve been squirting away with have done nothing to open-up my inflamed ear canal which developed shortly after scuba diving in Zanzibar. Squiffy is seriously bored of having to repeat herself all the time and I am still in a lot of discomfort.
We’ve decided to hold-off travelling to Moshi town (at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro) until my ear has recovered. One of the hospitals in Dar Es Salaam had an Ear, Nose & Throat Doctor on-site for the day, so we paid him a visit. Going to hospital is seldom fun in the UK, foreign hospitals are generally even less so. We couldn’t stop giggling at the device the doctor used to look inside my ear: It’s difficult to see in the picture because of the dark background, but mounted in-front of the magnifying lense is a miniture torch, somewhat akin to a mini Mag-Lite.
After hoovering my ear a bit, he prescribed me more of the pain-killers that I’m already taking and switched me from antibiotic ear drops to oral tablets instead. I’m due to see him in three days time for a further hoovering and the final fix. Here’s hoping.
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Zanzibar: Diving Photos
Posted by daveb on June 23rd, 2008
Sooner than expected, we found a place to develop Squiffy’s underwater photos. As you’d expect, the quality on an underwater disposable camera trails somewhat behind a modern ‘abovewater’ digital one, but you get the picture…
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Exhausted and Infected
Posted by Squiffy on June 20th, 2008
It’s not easy living in paradise you know. The inevitable has happened and we’ve succumbed to travel bugs. Not THE travel bug, as in the desire to travel, which I got when I was 7 years old, but travel illnesses,which we managed to avoid for a whole week. My symptoms of complete fatigue and dizziness are, according to our trusty guide book, indicative of heat exhaustion and probably due to the extreme sun and lack of fans/cold drinks on Zanzibar. Dave on the other hand, has an ear infection from bacteria in the water where we were diving. For the last few days it’s been very painful for him and very annoying for me as he’s deaf in one ear. Poor DaveB. Last night we continued our tour of foreign doctors when I took him to a medical centre. Thankfully they had more high tech equipment than the doctor I went to in Malaysia for a similar problem – he looked down my ear with a plumber’s torch. This doctor at least had the an ‘ear torch’, although the batteries were intermittent so I’m not sure how much use it was! What amused me most was the eye chart which had only the letter ‘E’ but in various rotations – on its side, upside-down etc. It must have been a Swahili version. Dave had to pay an extortionate $50 for the 5 minute consultation – Mzungo prices I suspect. The (lady) doctor’s advice to me was to take off all my clothes and sit under a fan. Not the most technical advice and certainly not practical when you’re travelling
We’re both now in recovery as we’re back on the mainland with access to continuous fans for me and ear drops for Dave. The ferry ride here most certainly didn’t help our conditions though. The sea was extremely rough and the boat kept crashing down and lurching from side to side. The crew handed out sick bags, which many of our fellow passengers had to use, but we’d sensibly taken anti-sickness tablets and survived with mild nausea.
Whilst we’re on the subject of bugs, you might like to know that I’ve so far shared my shower with geckos, spiders, giant snails and mosquitoes (they know where to find naked flesh). Oh the joys of travel…
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Leaving Kendwa Beach
Posted by daveb on June 19th, 2008
After a week of diving and relaxing at Kendwa Beach, in the north of Zanzibar island, we’re heading back to Stonetown and then back to the mainland. We made quite a few friends here and wanted to say thanks and goodbye. So, if you’re reading, farewell to the Ross family (Gill, Colin, David), Emily and Anna, Jill and Carlo of luxurybackpackers.com, Leo and Alon, Lorna and Andy and of course all the folks at the Scuba Do diving school.
Illnesses notwithstanding, we had a blast.
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