The undertow is so strong here on Baga beach, Goa, that I haven’t dared go into the sea for a dip above my ankles. The sign at the entrance to the beach offers a strongly- (and hilariously-) worded warning. That’s not to say that it hasn’t stopped most of the few hundred Indian holidaymakers from taking their chances — and I’m told that very few of them know how to swim. Good luck, you crazy folks!